Me and Team Crank – working name only – went down for a bit of the old slap and scrape (code for sandstone) last weekend. Some of that stuff is h!rd, even if it’s all bloody top-roping. [Some locals have the wierdest effing ideas about climbing ethics if you ask me]. Anyway, we were getting stuck on our 6a warmup (that’s English money, thickies, in case you are wondering) and one of our trusted gang who calls himself ‘The Prof’ got this wire brush out that he has and totally sorted this useless sloper, so that there was a lovely bit of something behind the back of it. Genius! We did a bit of soul-searching about it, and in the end decided to leave it at that. Except for gouging a couple of bits out further up where there are tricky feet. And another bit near the top where you feel like you are going to slip the f!ck off the route without a bit of a tickle for the left hand.
Anyway, no harm done is my feeling about it all. You can’t see it from the bottom. Wire brushing is cool too because they weigh less. Have you tried doing trad on lead with an effing hammer and chisel? It adds at least three goddamned grades if you ask me. No-one remembers that when they are on their high horse about chiselling, do they?!