Clipstick redpoint

Clipstick flash not always a dead cert

Clipstick flash not always a dead cert

This is another fu=!cking categorical gap on UKC (which, for the global fan base, is a UK climbing forum, not to be confused with the next entry on google United Kenel Clubs, which looks fr!gging scary).  Anyway, what I’m talking about is that you should get a tick for doing the damned clipstick ascent.  This summer, I was down at the Crag of Crags at Portland [=The Cuttings, for the sport ignoramus], and this geezer could see I was eyeing up the 7b he was done with and he kindly offered me the use of his rope.  Did I try to top-rope it?  No, of course not, that would not be the way of the crank-meister.  Checking that the kindly geezer was out of sight, and thinking ahead, I used the top-rope to back up my own clip-stick ascent, so that next time I had to do it in public, I could guarantee a cool and relaxed-looking ascent.  It was no small thing too as bolt two involved a big heave off a side-pull and you had to drop the clip in from above, with the clipstick maxed out, and your forearm wobbling, and at this point you can barely see the f!cker.  That move alone is probably C5.  Anyway, done!  Rock on!  Sure enough, on the next trip with the lads, I was ready to clip clip clip like a seasoned pro, and anyone checking out the action with team crankmeister would guess that we were regular bad-!ssed dudes solidly into our 7b project.  Oh Yes.


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